Careno, The Triangle-Shaped Hamlet of Lake Como: Why You Can’t Miss This Unspoilt Jewel
Careno di Nesso. Image via carenodinesso.it
Careno - district of Nesso, eastern shore of Lake Como: this is exactly the typical place where you leave a piece of your heart and then you keep asking yourself when you’ll be so lucky again to come back to such a timeless corner of Earth.
© Lakeside
Like all the most poetical things of this world, Careno retains a beauty made of very few and simple things: a handful of houses nestled on the mountain slope and cobbled alleys that lead to the tiny harbor of the village and to the church. Plus a fantastic trattoria, by far one of the most authentic of the whole Lake Como area - but we’ll talk about it later.
Detail of the old town in Careno | © Lakeside
The first most striking feature of Careno that you notice looking from the other bank of the lake (Torriggia/Laglio in particular) is its shape: a curious upside-down triangle. Fun fact: someone even nicknamed this hamlet “the bikini village”, due to this picturesque shape.
Image by Giorgio Zanon
Invisible from the main road leading to Bellagio, Careno can be spotted only from the lake.
We’ve summed up here for you the best things to do and to see in Careno: ready to explore the most poetical tiny hamlet of Lake Como with us? Let’s go!
The alleys of the old town
In the area of Nesso, in the past, there were quarries of the precious Moltrasio stone: the ancient stone houses of the old town of Nesso are a beautiful proof of the use of this valuable material (most of the inhabitants worked high up in the stone quarries: only a minority was dedicated to fishing!).
Detail of a lovely stone house in Careno | © Lakeside
The center of Careno is made of romantic alleys with lovely details.
A red wooden door in an alley | © Lakeside
A long staircase of 300 small steps leads to the harbor of the village, the trattoria and the awesome Chiesa di S. Martino.
The vertical structure of the village, with S. Martino church by the water | Pic via triangololariano.it
The long stone staircase leading to the water in Careno | © Lakeside
Trattoria del Porto: fresh fish by the water
We can state it with no hesitation: Trattoria del Porto in Careno is definitely one of the most authentic restaurants of Lake Como, where you can really taste our culinary tradition. If you’re craving fresh fish from our lake - lavarello, missultìn, rice with perch - you’re in the right place.
Rice with perch at Trattoria del Porto | © Lakeside
The trattoria has been run for more than 30 years by the same family: the service is absolutely friendly, you’ll appreciate it. Furthermore, the waiters love explaining you all the dishes and their background stories!
Missultìn at Trattoria del Porto | © Lakeside
Make sure to book your table in advance, ideally on the terrace: the view is just breathtaking!
Once you finish your lunch/dinner, don’t forget to ask the owners of the restaurant the keys of the next door S. Martino church (it’s really a few meters from the trattoria!): they’re the only ones keeping them, so that’s your only chance to enter and explore this romantic church.
S. Martino church | Pic by triangololariano.it
S. Martino church, romanesque gem
The stunning porch of S. Martino church | © Lakeside
S. Martino church is by far one of the most interesting example of Romanesque architecture of Lake Como: a perfect model of Maestri Comacini’s art.
© Lakeside
S. Martino church | © Lakeside
The stone bell tower of this tiny medieval church is the most ancient of Lake Como, but that’s not the only reason to visit this jewel: the church indeed contains valuable frescoes, and the outside is characterized by an open porch to the lake with a double lancet window (we challenge you not to take a photo here!).
The view from the double lancet of S. Martino church | © Lakeside
Internally, the pictorial decoration dates back to the 16th century: it has come back to light in recent years, as it remained hidden by layers of plaster for a long time.
S. Martino, interior | © Lakeside
S. Martino, detail of the interior | © Lakeside
The triumphal arch is decorated with three ovals that enclose the protagonist figures of the Annunciation (the announcing Angel, the Virgin foretold and God the Father). The walls of the presbytery, covered with frescoes that simulate marbles, host a Crucifixion between two saints and Saint Anthony. (Credits for the photos in the gallery below: www.triangololariano.it)
The beach
The beach in Careno is amazingly secluded, quiet and romantic. It’s made up partly of natural sand and partly by grass. The car park is just after the access to reach the beach.
Monti di Careno
From Careno, with a steep stairway road, you reach the locality of Monti di Careno (360 meters of altitude), lying halfway on the slopes of Monte Preaola. There are wonderful views and old farmhouses recently renovated, but which have retained all their historical flavor.
About twenty minutes away from this hamlet there’s the famous Masera cave, 400 m long: here there are ponds, siphons, waterfalls and a development of tunnels. It’s connected to the underground water system of Pian Tivano and the Palanzone and Preaola mountains.
Grotta di Masera. Image via carenodinesso.it
During the explorations of the beginning on the 1900s, the experts found ammonoid fossils and marine mollusks that appeared on earth 400 million years ago. Inform yourself before going as to the possibility of exploring the grotto, and only do it with expert guides!
How to get to Careno
The hamlet of Careno is located on the provincial road SS Lariana 583, which from Como leads to Bellagio, between the villages of Pognana Lario and Nesso.
You can reach Careno by car, by bus (line C30), or from the lake with the ferry (only in the warm season).
Pic by Valerio Carletto
Looking for a property in Lake Como, near the locations described in this article?